Climb This: Gigarete V7
Kyle R. scoping out the holds. Yankee Jim Canyon, Montana. Photo by Ryan W.
Everyone loves an aesthetic boulder. It immediately inspires you to want to put time into it. It simply looks COOL. Such is Gigarete V7, found in the Locomotives area of Yankee Jim Canyon, Montana. This boulder is is an excellent problem to project if you’re in that V6-V8 gym climbing range. It is a mix of thuggy overhanging power moves, that culminates in a tricky finish that requires balance and finesse. A lot of work has been done throughout the years to clear the landing out of other small boulders, resulting it in being fairly flat and easy to protect with crash pads. As always, we recommend a friend to spot you on your attempts.
The climb starts down left, low on two crimps. Pull through some satisfying, powerful moves and you will eventually find yourself on a fairly good right hand staring up at the lip of the boulder. Going for the top is the crux. There are a few different toes available, all fairly bad and none that inspire confidence. Figure out which one works for you best, and trust it. The top is fairly positive, and topping out should not be too difficult once you have established yourself. After you’ve topped, pat yourself on the back for a hard send and your reward is an easy walk-off down the other side of the boulder.
Things to consider in this area are the multitudes of other V6+ boulders within nearby to check out. On the same boulder lives Mrs. Leslie (V6), Mr. Leslie (V8), and Harmony in Ultraviolet (V10). Within spitting distance of Gigarete are other V6+ boulders such as Foo Man Chew (V6), Carpenters Crack (V8), and Summer in Paradise (V9). Yankee Jim Canyon is also undoubtedly in bear territory, and grizzly bears are known to be in the area, so make sure you practice bear safety and bring bear spray. Use the bathroom located five minutes from the area to minimize your environmental impact, and always practice Leave No Trace. Yankee Jim Canyon is a historic location, and has been used for centuries as a migration route for local Indigenous Peoples. As such, do not damage the local petroglyphs and please respect the history of the canyon.
With the flooding that occurred in the spring of 2022, these boulders have also become more difficult to access due to road washouts. If you choose to access the area from the north (Tom Miner side), you will have to cross the river at the Old Yellowstone Trail access, (the Tom Miner Bridge washed away) drive until you hit the parking area, then walk about a mile south to bathroom area and the Locomotive boulders. If you choose to access from the south, you will need to drive past the canyon until you hit Corwin Springs, and cross the river. Once crossed, you will drive north on the dirt road until you begin to enter Yankee Jim Canyon again. We recommend finding a pulloff before the canyon and walking from there, as the road has washed out and the parking area near the boulders is no longer accessible. Please be respectful of the private lands that border the area and try to carpool to reduce congestion on the road.
We encourage you to check out this local classic. This entire area is included within Erik Christensen’s SWMT Blocs bouldering guidebook, with excellent area information and approach beta. Please always feel free to ask our staff for information on any local climbing area, and we are happy to assist if we can!
