Climb This: Keep it Under 100 - 5.10a
Allenspur Climbing area near Livingston, MT, offers a picturesque and diverse range of climbing routes nestled amidst stunning natural surroundings.
Montana Limestone can be repetitive. Lots of clinging. While still a blast, sometimes moderate slab climbs blend into one another. If you find yourself in this conundrum at Allenspur in Paradise Valley, never fear. There’s a fun, moderate climb that will surely have movement you will remember.
Located on the left side of the main crag, Keep it Under 100 is a splendid, varied climb for either the 5.11 climber who wants a fun warmup, or a 5.10 climber who wants to try something new. At fifteen bolts, 99 ft (hence the name), the climb is no shorty. Topping it will feel like the end of a journey, as you will have engaged in several styles of climbing, all in one pitch!
To start Keep It Under 100, look for a fracture that runs up and slices through a bulge. Begin, as with all Allenspur climbs, on the slab. Tiptoe up on camouflaged edges until you find yourself beneath the bulge. Finesse the lump on good holds and find yourself standing in a broken corner. Use three-dimensional movement to follow the blocky corner up until you are staring at a bolt to your right. Now, break free! Step out of the corner onto another slab, but this time make only a couple moves until you reach a proper limestone splitter. Jam (if you’re into that) or don’t jam the traversing crack across another line until it delivers you to a cozy set of mussy hooks. Watch out for other climbers up there, and for the love of choss, please wear a helmet!
Please note: the Allenspur area has a history of fragile access. While most of the climbs are on BLM land, the terrain between the crags and the road is private property. Thanks to a large effort by the Southwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition, the organization gained an easement in 2019, allowing climbers to cross the property. This agreement cut the approach in half, as previously, climbers had to hike around the private property. This access is first and foremost, an agreement, with terms. Please don’t bring dogs or vehicles to the crag. Stay on the trails and respect signage to keep climbers’ access.
While Keep it Under 100 has a slightly different style than other moderates at Allenspur, be sure not to miss the nearby classics: Sunday Driver (10.b – just to the right of Keep It), Climbers’ Club Route (5.8), Sully’s Route (.10a), and Bee Yourself (.11a).
By Spire Member Mardy Harding
